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	The Lewis and Clark Explorer Train Riding the Train from Portland to Astoria, Oregon, along the Columbia River Click thumbnail photos to see enlargements. Web site and photos by Steve Relei unless otherwise stated.
	The Lewis & Clark Train Journal

The Lewis and Clark Explorer provided train service between Portland and Astoria, Oregon-- a route that had not seen regular passenger train service since 1952. The service ran during the summers of 2003 and 2004 and ran again during the summer --from June 3 through October 3--of 2005 . The service was sponsored by the Oregon Department of Transportation and operated by the Pacific and Western Railroad. Actually several agencies and businesses were involved. As its name implied, it honored the 200th anniversary of the historic journey made by the Lewis and Clark Expedition from 1804-06. The train parallels their route along the Columbia River. It was during the winter of 1805-06 that the Expedition stayed at Fort Clatsop just outside of

today's Astoria. The fort has been re-created and is operated by the Park Service for visitors to get an idea of the living quarters and lifestyles of the men (and their time) as they stayed here.

I rode the train in September 2004 ; again July 15 and 16, 2005, and I was onboard the train during its final weekend of operation: October 1, Portland/Linnton to Astoria. October 3, Astoria to Linnton/Astoria.
Click http://www.lcbo.net/sites.html for map of Oregon, then Region 5 for map of Lower Columbia (from St. Helens to Astoria and the ocean). Although it doesn't show the rail route, the railroad is mostly right along the river.

The train used three old Rail Diesel Cars (RDCs) previously owned by BC (British Columbia) Rail (with BC Rail lettering, signs and paint scheme still visible in places) and uses the route provided by the Portland and Western Railroad--which previously was owned by the Burlington Northern (now Burlington Northern Santa Fe--BNSF) and previous to that by the Spokane, Portland & Seattle (SP&S), and previous to that by the Astoria & Columbia River Railroad (A & CR)--which originally completed the line in 1898. The train actually departed from Linnton--two miles or so north of the St. Johns Bridge, about three miles from where the BNSF tracks swing northward to cross the Willamette River. Shuttle buses took passengers from Downtown Portland from the Mallory Hotel to the L&C train depot. Passengers can also drive to and park their cars at the Linnton depot site. There was no real depot, just a platform where passengers could board and deboard. With the "All Aboard!" the train backed out onto the mainline and then moved forward toward its destination of Astoria. The train never went very fast; the fastest I saw was between 30 mph. These were speed restrictions by the P&W railroad (and Federal Railroad Administration).

The only problem I had was not being able to get a window seat on the water side. On one hand, the conductor feels that since the train is subsidized, people should all be treated equally and no one given preferential treatment. Fair enough! However, on Amtrak, (which is also subsidized), if I ask nicely for a certain seat (and or side of the train) and if it is available, I can usually get it. I certainly don't mind sharing spectacular views with other people--especially those who appreciate them. However, when other people don't care where they sit and what they look at (or may want to read and/or sleep), then my request should be honored--at least considered. There is such a thing as customer service--no matter who is paying the actual bill. At first, I had to sit with an old lady and look over her to look out her window; later I got a seat by the window on the other side (away from the water/river), supposedly with the deal of getting a window seat on the river side on the return trip. On the return trip, it was only an aisle seat on the same side of the train as the river--but no seat next to the window looking at the river!

This year, the seat situation was much better. I was allowed to sit pretty much where I wanted (as long someone else had not already claimed the seat) and was able to sit on the Columbia River side of the train. For the return trip, I had a seat on the opposite side of the train and at least a window seat. The train was actually two-thirds full, so there was more room the move about. The second car was sort of a diner with tables. I was able to sit at a table on the Columbia River side of the train for as much as I wanted. Besides having tables, this car had a galley--where meals were prepared--and a mail section. This car once belonged to the Northern Pacific Railroad and was used on a short run in North Dakota. It also carried mail, which was handled and sorted enroute. There was also an engineer's and fireman's compartment, where I was also allowed to sit at times. The fireman's seat (on the left side of the train) faced toward the read of the train (when the train was heading back to Portland), so I was looking backward (backward also meant the rear car). I used the mirror to look towards the front. This car (the other two were) was not air conditioned, so I enjoyed the breezes blowing through the window and also the open vestibule doors and the doors that would have been used to deliver and take on mail in days of yore.

On the outbound trip, I had a window seat on the left hand (facing forward) side of the train in the car that had tables (sort of like a dining/lounge car), and I could see out just fine on both sides. I could also get up and go to the vestibules and other parts of the train where I could look out on the "right hand" side of the train. Coming back (Portland-bound), I had a seat by the window looking out toward the Columbia River, though I also took the opportunity to get up and walk around and visit other parts of the train where I could look out.

There were a lot of nice things to see on both sides of the train, there was a vestibule where I could stand and look out the windows both toward the river and behind the train and enjoy the scenery that way--that worked nicely! I could also roll down the window and breathe in the fresh, country air. The train is not always within sight of the Columbia River (or the Willamette Slough--an arm of the Willamette River before it joins with the Columbia). Instead it often travels through verdant fields, farms, pastures, forests, and wetlands (most connected to the Columbia). There are a several wetland and wildlife refuges along the way. I saw deer (including one that darted out from the front of the train--almost getting hit) and lots of birds, especially Blue Herons. I didn't see any bald eagles this time, but people have on other trips. I saw a bald eagle on the second trip on the way back to Portland. We passed through the towns of Columbia City, St. Helens, and Rainier. In Rainier, the train runs down the middle of the street! And there were constantly people all along the route waving to us. One guy followed us all the way taking pictures to Astoria in his truck. We waved back. Near Rainier, one also finds the now-decommissioned Trojan Power Plant. We also passed underneath the Lewis and Clark Bridge--the bridge between Longview, Washington, and Rainier, Oregon. As much as I tried, I could not see the BNSF mainline across the river on the Washington side.

But most of the time, the train is right next to the water--Columbia River; and often it is only the railroad that is there (with high cliffs on the one side and the river on the other). It was great getting that close to the water. I could see several oceangoing ships on the river; we seemed to be pacing each other as we almost were neck in neck in speed. There were also tugs and various pleasure craft out on the water, fishermen were plentiful. I love being near the water and all the different shades of colors, lights, reflections, various scenes, sights across the river. We did get a little rain in both directions at about where the river crosses the Coastal Range (they too provide a bit of a rain shadow--where clouds and moisture come off the ocean and meet the mountains and let off some of their moisture before heading farther inland and eastward). And these are places that ONLY the train goes--no cars; Highway 30 most often is routed inland. Amtrak Thruway buses use the Sunset Highway (#26) to Seaside then up the coast to Astoria. Many people onboard expressed amazement: "I never knew all this existed," was one such reply.

There are three drawbridges, actually swing bridges, that are still operated by hand. The operator uses a hand crank to open the bridge for river traffic and then realign it for trains to cross. The train must stop at the bridge, make sure it is in position, then it crosses at no more than 10 mph. After crossing the bridge, the train once again picks up speed (30 to 35 mph). It should also be noted that the last 30 or so miles into Astoria is officially out of service--even for freight trains.

Soon enough we arrived in Astoria. There are several options for passengers. One bus took people to the top of Coxcomb Hill to visit the Astoria Columbia. Another took people to the Fort Clatsop National Memorial site. The trolley took people farther along the scenic Columbia River waterfront, past wharves and docks, the Columbia River Maritime Museum, underneath the impressive Astoria-Megler Bridge, the city center, and other attractions. People could also walk along the waterfront to and from downtown. We had about 4 hours to do what we wanted. Eventually though it was time to return to Portland.
Photo from
http://www.oldoregon.com/Pages/fortclatsop.htm

When the train returned to Portland (Linnton), the rear of the train became the front of the train, and again I could stand in the vestibule and look out the window at the river and (this time) the front of the train as it traveled. This is with the engineer! There were a few other guys (one filming the ride) also in the "cab." The engineer let us blow the whistle at crossings a few times. Although the route was the same, moving in a different direction, the changes in lighting, the setting of the sun, and the onset of nighttime all created a new way of looking at the scenery we had seen earlier. We arrived at Linnton after dark and at Union Station by 9:30pm after an adventurous day.

Food (snacks and full meals), beverages, beer, wine, and cocktails are all available for purchase onboard. The onboard stewards will serve them to you at your seat; there are pull-down trays (like on airplanes) for eating and other activities. On the return trip (Astoria to Portland/Linnton), several Astoria-area restaurants provide catering (specialty meals and entrées) to the train for purchase. A salmon dinner, for example, cost $12. The train also sells a variety of gifts, postcards, souvenirs, and route guides. The system is that you pay your entire tab (of all the things you have ordered) at the end of each leg of the trip. The food and drinks (that I sampled) were all of highest quality.

The roundtrip fare from Portland is $70 , and the train runs on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays. You can go by train one way and then take a bus or boat back, and you don't have to come back on the same day. Many people went to Astoria on the train and spent the night (or nights) there. This time I went and spent the night in Astoria and came back the next day. If you do wish to spend more time in Astoria, there are many places to stay, eat, and things to see and do. Click the Chamber of Commerce link below for more information.

I was in Astoria this time to participate in the Great Columbia Crossing, which took place on October 2 (Sunday). The Astoria-Megler Bridge is normally closed to pedestrian traffic; this is the only time of the year foot passengers can be on the bridge. For some people, it is a race, and three were a lot of runners. For other people: people have to pay to run or walk, so some people did it for charity. I did it both for the bridge (to get a closer look at it) and for the nature walk. The bridge itself is 4.1 miles across and features at least five (5) different types of spans (the entire course was about 6 miles--10K). Via using the bridge, I could get out onto the water--the Columbia River within sight of its confluence with the Pacific Ocean--I could see whitecaps in the distance. Shuttle buses took us from the Oregon side across to the Washington side to a rest stop a mile to the right of the bridge, then we walked or ran back. We all got more nature than we intended, as it rained furiously at times; and at other times the rain was mild. The highlight for me was the main--cantilever-section of the bridge that rises about 200 feet above the water--above the shipping channel. From up there, you can see for miles around--what a view! of course, I could look down at the water below. I looked more closely at the lattice work, the piers, and other aspects of the construction and design. I could also stand there and watch the trolley pass underneath, just like watching one of my model trains. Although I wasn't in it for the race, I did want to finish the course, which ended at the Red Lion Inn. I did and did it in 2 hours and 6 minutes.

The last ride was as scenic as before and an "occasion." The trolley escorted us out of town--clanging its bells and giving us a warm send off. The train was full; not a seat was empty. After arriving at Linnton, the train crew sang their final "Roll On Columbia, Roll On" (by Woody Guthrie) several times and posed for photos for passengers, the company, and posterity. The train cars are now out of a job, and the state of Oregon is looking to sell them. I say, it was a job well done!

You can check the Lewis and Clark Bicentennial in Oregon Web site at www.lcbo.net for more information. Tickets can be obtained from TicketsWest 1-800-992-TIXX (8499), or visit this webpage or Sundial Travel Services in Astoria (800-433-1164). The Linnton station is at 12222 NW Marina Way. As of July 1, there was shuttle service between the Mallory Hotel and Linnton; the fare for the shuttle was $5 each way.

Schedule (approx.)
Bus leaves Mallory Hotel	7:30am
Train leaves Linnton	7:50am
Train arrives Astoria	11:30 am
Train leaves Astoria	4:45pm
Train arrives Linnton	8:50pm
Bus arrives Mallory Hotel	9:15pm